The knife grinder stood at the gate, checking whether the dog was secure in its
cage. My maid informed me that all the
knives had to be sharpened so please let him come in..so he cycled in. He asked
for mymother in law and was shocked to hear that she was no more. It has been
more than two years since he came this way.
Onam.. synonymous with any Malayali...the legendary story of the just Demon King Mahabali heralds the spirit of happiness, hospitality, and prosperity. Ten days of delightful expectancy for the arrival of our beloved King. Plantains are sliced in thin rounds dipped in turmeric and fried till crisp, and the sweeter version, which is coated in jaggery and spices are even more delicious. Flower carpets adorn the front courtyards, which in olden days are first sanctified with cow dung paste. We used to go flower hunting..a scene which has faded into oblivion.Coir swings dangle merrily from the branches which would be helplessly witnessing a tussle between the numerous little contestants waiting for a chance. .. Now flowers arrive in lorries in loads which busy parents after office haggle and strike a deal.Little girls in white petticoats picking flowers after giving the floral branches a good shake is a sight which has receded from our midst.
Well, thank the Lord that I've been born in this last generation who has witnessed these scenes and then could write about it.
Attire does matter..
Any festival..you name it and sparks of joy runs through your spine, even without you knowing it. You want to be a part of it, that is a way of holding on to your own traditions and values. Movies glorify it with family reunions, doting grand parents waiting in their ancestral house.. a too familiar scene.. Onam is also the harvest festival, though now bungalows have evaded the endless stretches of paddy fields and plantain groves or vazha thottam in Malayalam. But this younger jet set generation of ours too contribute in their own way and try to live up to them by conceptualizing and tying to keep the spirit alive. It is no fault of theirs that the customs are vanishing..
Malabaris do not have much Onam games to boast of, the southern counterparts have a much more active Onam, as they have the boat races, Puli kkali, Ona Thallu (Fight) and so on.
For me Onam has always been at Rama Nilayam( my husband's house), but nobody comes home as Karnataka schools do not have holidays for Onam so it would be just us and my ma in law. A research on the design to be cast in flowers would be done, delving into kolam designs. A mundu veshti would be the yearly Onakkodi from my mother in law. It s'been a year since she passed away, and I had to chose between spending the Onam at the family house alone or leave the family house forlorn and join Malabar Bay Onam celebrations.... Malabar Bay it was..
Malabar Bay's first Onam..a floral design adorned the entrance for ten days. Onam songs lent the desired spring in our steps feel of Onam in the air. We bought masks of tigers for the kids and fliers were issued.
Twenty six dishes are the norm of a normal Onam sadya. The number can be doubled or trebled as per your purse strings. Plantain leaves are laid the tips pointing left. North malabaris are not much adept at the art of partaking the traditional sadya hence, they are an object of ridicule to their Southern counterparts where it is strictly vegetarian., and they follow the rules of a sadya to the teee. Plantain chips sweet and salt arrive first, and immediately we go for it..but it should not be the case..wait wait wait till the salt is served the very last..Pilckles and tamarind ginger chutney are doled in close to each other which we Malabaris lap up as soon as it lands on the leaf. Pachadis mainly one of ginger and one of white gourd and another one of pine apple, then comes the kootu karis..an amalgamation of vegetables, crushed coconut and vegetables garnished with mustard and chillies , the elegant and mild olan.(.vegtables simmered in cocnut milk), and then the much awaited aviyal..(.veggies spiced with green chillies and laced with curd, cumin,and coconut, curryleaves, and a liberal dose of of the aromatic coconut oil). Lore goes that Mahabali is led here by the aroma of the mustard seeds , chillies and curry leaves spluttering in coconut oil.. Dried chilli kondattams and papapds crushed and crunched into the rice..sambhar which we have borrowed from Tamilnadu occupy the pride of place in a sadya.. Rasam and buttermilk with a smattering of crushed ginger and green chillies, and curry leaves are poured into cupped hands..Payasams are poured into paper cups..burppp. one with jaggery and the other rice pasta simmered and simmered to a creamy consistency. It is poured onto the leaf and we take care it does not slide over onto our onakkodis, a delightful way of lapping up the payasam is crushing a ripe plantain into it.. a literally fingerlicking treat..burrp..
Ona Sadya treat given to a Ninety yr old friend.. touched my soul.
The rice (mostly red rice is served and then comes the dal and ghee with salt. papads . The dal ghees and salt mixture is a slice of heaven. I remember attending a wedding in Trivandrum, when they served payasam, which left me wondering..Oh such a large spread and no kaalan (currry made of thick curd<which was my fav), and after the payasams,we folded the leaf and lo..there camre the Kalan..that was the norm there and we found others throw us an amused look, finding our plantain leaves closed. But for us Malabaris.. fried fishes and chicken rule the roost.. if not , we are lost.
Onam discussions at Malabar Bay..a tussle ensued veg or non veg? non veg won hands down, and it was decided that chembally fry and Kerala chicken fry would vie with one another.
Who would be Maveli? Deepu of course. Deepu was our Captain from Nepal, round and wobbly, with a disposition to match..but we asked him to say 'Nan-ni' (thanx) but 'panni'(meaning pig) was all he could stutter. so we cautioned him just to flash his thousand watt smile and bless his subjects.
Onam dawned. flowers were separated, leaves chopped, shredded coconut, dried, crushed and colored.. .. a beautiful carpet took shape. strands of marigold wined and twirled around the staircase and hung down from the Kerala style wooden railings... the Kerala boat which we had was filled with orange marigolds..the lamp was lit and then arrived Maveli in all his glory....the crowd started trickling in. ladies, let out their love for their home land..decked up in onnarayum mundum (as malabaris call it, the two piece mundu set of women), the creamy cotton sarees glowed with their subtle golden borders. bejewelled in palakkas and kaashu maalaas, . little girls scrambled holding up their cream skirts, men and boys with mundus and cream shirts and kurtas ..poovili poovili ponnonamaayi..Salil Chowdury's hit song.. we are proud to be Mallus..it was nostalgic..click clickk..with Maveli and the splendid and sumptuous sadya..
Being in Mysore is being myself.. only me..a space of my own, ironically, silence, solitude and strains of music for company. commitments shuttle you to and fro.. no complaints..as I have Mysore to turn to for a whiff of relief, and freedom. Now,the weather is next best to your skin as it caresses and comforts, with showers of rain choosing to play hide n seek instead of pouring n pouring for hours together. The house needed my attention as the bills had to be paid, the tv had to be repaired and the cable connection had to be restored, Santhosh left me in Mysore and drove off to Bangalore. The cloudy monsoon weather gifted me an illusory feel.. as though my cosy quilt was inviting me to snuggle in, as it had been lonely for quiet a long time, I obliged with drooping lids and and slipped into soft slumber .. n lo it was past seven. lit the lamp and my sambrani dhoop, I left home to trod on the lanes I used to frequent, to the divine Ganesha who was clothed in creamy butter, with cherries for toenails, peppercorns for eyes, leaves and stems are made to look like garlands and jewellery.( bennai alankara), was soothing beyond words.The theertha was dribbled into my hands and a jasmine flower given as prasad. I dipped my fingers into the kumkum bowl and streaked it on my forehead. A silent discourse with the Lord, telling him how I miss him, and I m on my way to the vegetable wala and the small crowded grocery store, which cd rival a supermarket, the boy there waved a cheery helloooo," thumba naalayi, kaanthaayillaa "( havent seen you for long). Well.. Im missed,, intoxicating ...Right next used to be a small hotel reeking of sambhar, where i used to inadvertantly quicken my pace.. I stopped short.. it was all done up in creamy ivory white and a man was playing Yemen Raga on his flute. The small space had a small vertical garden fixed on a wall and small brass pots of indoor plants. seeing me, a lady with Italian features invited me in with folded hands.. namaste.. a very small space.. I sat on the wooden bark of a tree which served as a stool, and they handed me a small cup of phal ras, a banana crush laced with cardamom, and their menu on a on a wooden board. I looked around, not so comfortable on the wooden stool, I must admit, an antique wooden round book shelf, filled with books, fitted in the centre of the room,(it seemed to be pleading for salvation) and another wall with wooden shelves are arranged with essential oils and herbal powders and potions. sambrani fumes get pathetically diffused amidst the cooking and transit of the staff. black and white photographs of Ramana. Maharshi, Aurobindo, and Jiddu Krihnamurthy lent a holistic feel. The menu consisted of a variety of pastas, soups and salads sprout sandwiches, and fruit juices. I ordered a soup and sprout salad for Rs 100 and got ready to harness my mind to the ambience they strive to offer.
Mr Tarneiv, came and introduced himself.. a techie from Canada...wanted to give back to his motherland, do business including a social cause... present and promote a holistic lifestyle, a noble idea indeed..but doubts soared in my mind. India.. after Canada..He explained..this was a small start towards building a holistic community..read, write, eat good food, sing and share ideas.. he wd move over to a larger space later. Just then Rahul Dev, the bollywood villain barged in and here I am... clicked a pic with him. The young boy, a techie too fell in the groove, as he too left his job to dedicate his life to Sangeeth. I wished him all the best and he asked me to sit for some time more..I did and at ten, walked back home with mixed emotions. The road less traveled..is the one Tarneiv chose to live..
It was a beautiful day. We had to leave San Francisco behind.. The flowers and the cafes, the lonely hilly roads, and the bright blue sea.. the fresh salad rolls... the gypsies... When will I see you again? Over to Las Vegas..
Each page has something or the other which is fascinating and fabulous. The opulence of our princely class is not anything new, but when you try living it out and experiencing it, it takes a new dimension. The Scindias were one of the richest states. Jai Vilas, apalce in Gwalior, was built expressly to receive The Prince Of Wales on his visit in1876.
The scene is Coronation Park of Delhi. The swaying corn fileds have transformed int o a dusty sea of white sails. India is celebrating it's new Emperor. George Fifth. The event had to feature in the historic events map as a star studded event.233 separate camp sites! A railway line with16 mini stations was created. Automobiles were the preferred means of transport. The muddy roads were pressed down with OIL. The electricity used was said to be enough to light up the twin cities of Brighton and Portsmouth. Wow! The eendless powercuts we endure now!Telegraph wires, water connections and Post offices were erected! The wealth of the states were evident by the fleets of cars they flaunted. hyderabad was the richest state and its cars were painted yellow. The King's camp was 83 acres. Rose bushes were shipped from London!!!! The main shamiana was filled with rich rugs and glittering crystal chandeliers. The State Dining tent held 145 British diners and thirty Indian diners...Now let me relax and get a feel of the scene..